Slick 60's

jwh f-100 · Joined: 11 Jun 2007 Posts: 1619 Location: Equinunk, PA

Here is one more option for a pedal activated brake switch.

Other than approximate measurements of the steel needed to build the bracket I think it is probably best to not try and give exact step by step, where to drill, where to bend, ect. ect. I would suggest make your bends first then by holding the bracket on the truck mark where the switch and mounting hole needs to be.

Here is a basic diagram

The bracket.

Installed... View from the fuel pedal side.

View from the clutch side.

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Jason

Bad decisions make good stories..

DV65CustomCab · Joined: 18 Jul 2006 Posts: 1054 Location: Elizabethtown, PA

My only criticism of the design (and I like it) is that the bracket could pivot when the brake pedal is released. If the bracket could be bent in such a way it sits in the 'flange' of the pedal bracket that would be prevented.

Now, if the pedal switch is adjusted correctly for a light touch to the pedal and the bolt is snug it probably wouldn't ever do that, but in the interest of perfecting the design that's what I'd probably do.
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'65 Custom Cab 352/3 speed longbed
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jwh f-100 · Joined: 11 Jun 2007 Posts: 1619 Location: Equinunk, PA

ICEMAN6166 · Posted: July 21, 2008, 2:29 pm Post subject:

i did not even use a bracket, i took out the rubber bump stop under the dash that the pedal arm contacts and put the switch in the hole. (61-64 cab and 65-66 bigger trucks and 4x4).
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“If ever a time should come, when vain and aspiring men shall possess the highest seats in Government, our country will stand in need of its experienced patriots to prevent its ruin.” Samuel Adams, 1776
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Greg D · Joined: 13 Sep 2006 Posts: 6661 Location: Bellevue Nebraska

jwh f-100 · Joined: 11 Jun 2007 Posts: 1619 Location: Equinunk, PA

Lowell · Joined: 21 Aug 2006 Posts: 353 Location: Southern Indiana

I made a bracket very similar to that one , only i drilled two small holes just to the left of the big bolt in the photo, and fastened it with two small metal screws. you have to be sure and keep the screws short to keep from interfering with the moving parts behind.I used the same switch too.I had to measure ,cut and bend as i went to get it right.

Blackwaterforge · Joined: 13 Mar 2008 Posts: 188 Location: Alabama

Thanks for the replies! The electric switch may be the best option.
Ice I like your idea about using the existing hole where the rubber bumper is.

Dancing

ICEMAN6166 · Posted: May 18, 2009, 11:34 am Post subject:

i used regular size 1/2- 20 fine thread nuts,overkill by far ,but i dont think it will come loose.
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“If ever a time should come, when vain and aspiring men shall possess the highest seats in Government, our country will stand in need of its experienced patriots to prevent its ruin.” Samuel Adams, 1776
http://www.stillmadeinusa.com/

qwertyd10n · Joined: 13 Sep 2007 Posts: 207 Location: Southern Alberta

fmartin_gila · Joined: 21 Apr 2007 Posts: 940 Location: Globe, Az.

I just made an "L" shaped bracket and hose-clamped the short leg to the steering column and a plunger type switch in the long leg which matched the pedal arm. Is slightly visible, but has worked perfectly for well over five years now and is really easy to accomplish.

ICEMAN6166 · Posted: October 30, 2009, 11:05 am Post subject:

Obsa · Joined: 19 Jul 2006 Posts: 1204 Location: Northwest Georgia

It has been a few years back, but I used a switch from a motorcycle. It was in my "junk" box so not sure what make it was from.
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